Getting Around

Air

Carriacou’s airport is Lauriston, a US$4 taxi ride from Hillsborough, US$10 from Mount Pleasant. Disconcertingly, the main road goes straight across the runway. A fire engine drives out from Hillsborough to meet incoming flights, bringing the Immigration Officer, who clings to a platform at the back in Keystone Cops fashion.

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Every day LIAT and Airlines of Carriacou fly frequently between Grenada and Carriacou: US$50 return, half that one way (flying time is 12 minutes).

Land

Car: Driving is on the left. Be prepared for no road signs, no indication which way the traffic flow goes (just watch the other cars) & few street names. You must purchase a local permit, on presentation of your national driving licence, for EC$30/US$12; a local permit is not required if you hold an international driving licence. Maps are often not accurate, so navigation becomes particularly difficult. Also be careful of the deep storm drains along the edges of the narrow roads.

Car Hire: Cars can be rented from a number of companies for about US$55 or EC$150 a day, plus US$2,500 excess liability and 5% tax (payable by credit card.) Companies in St George’s include Spice Island Rentals (Avis), Paddock and Lagoon Road, T4403936; Dollar Rent-a-Car, airport, T4444786, F4444788; David’s, at the airport and several hotels, T4443399; McIntyre Bros, cars and jeeps, T4443944, F4442899, Email: macford@caribsurf.com; Maitland’s (who also rent motorcycles), Market Hill, T4444022, also an office at the airport which is often open for late arrivals when others are closed; C Thomas and Sons, cars, minibuses, jeeps, T4444384, mixed reports. We have received reports that daily rates quoted over the phone are not always honoured when you pick up the car; check that the company does not operate a three-day minimum hire if you want a rate for one day only, this often applies in high season. Carriacou: John Gabriel, T4437454; Martin Bullen, T4437204. Jeep hire is available for EC$100 per day or less for a week.

Taxi: Fares are set by the tourist board. On Grenada, taxis charge EC$4 for the first 10 miles outside St George’s, then EC$3 per mile thereafter (an additional EC$10 charge is made after 1800 and before 0600). From St George’s Pier it is US$3 to the city or Botanical Gardens, US$12 to L’Anse aux Épines. A taxi tour of Grenada costs about US$40-55 per person for a full day or US$15 per person per hour. Carriacou: There are also plenty of taxis, or you can hire a car. Island tours of Carriacou cost the same as on Grenada. A recommended driver is Leroy Wilson (VHF 16/68, T4431171, pager 4417089), good local history, driving and hiking tours (Seven Falls, Hot Springs); also Christopher Greenidge, T4447334. Taxis and buses are heavily ‘personalized’ by the drivers with brightly coloured decorations and names like ‘Rusher with Love’ or ‘Danny Boy’, while large speakers blast out steel bands or reggae music; taxi drivers will adjust the volume on request.

Bus

Buses run to all parts of the island from the Market Square and the Esplanade in St George’s; on the Esplanade look for the signs, in the Square, ask around. Fares are EC$1 within St George’s, EC$3 to Grand Étang, and EC$4.50 to Grenville and EC$5 to Sauteurs. There is also a regular bus service between Grenville and Sauteurs. The last buses tend to be in mid-afternoon and there are very few on Sunday. Buses go from Hillsborough to Bogles, Windward (EC$2) and to Tyrrel Bay. A bus also goes from the airport to Windward (EC$1.50). The normally excellent service goes to pieces if it is wet. Carriacou: Buses cost EC$1 for one mile, EC$2 for more than that; Harvey Vale to Windward EC$4. The same van may be a taxi and cost US$10, ask for “bus” and be prepared to wait. Buses go from Hillsborough to Bogles, Windward (EC$2) and to Tyrrel Bay. A bus also goes from the airport to Windward (EC$1.50). The normally excellent service goes to pieces if it is wet.

Bicycles: Bike rentals can be arranged with Ride Grenada, T4441157. Bike parts, but no repairs, at Ace Hardware, Lagoon Rd, south end. Cycling is good around Grenada, with accommodation conveniently spaced. The ride between Sauteurs and Victoria is peaceful with spectacular views. From Gouyave to St George’s via Grand Etang is difficult but rewarding with some steep hills in the beautiful forest reserve and small, friendly communities. Allow 5-6 hrs. Carriacou: Cycling is recommended, the traffic is very light. Many of the roads are in very poor repair, giving the semblance of off-road cycling. Potential for lots of flat tyres in the dry season as there is an abundance of cacti.

Hitchhiking: Quite easy though the roads are not very good.

Sea

Boat: Osprey Lines operate a hovercraft service to Carriacou, journey time one and a half hours, T4074047, F4439041. On Wednesday and Saturday at 0930 the trading schooners Alexia II and Adelaide B sail from The Carenage, St George’s to Carriacou (four hours, EC$20 one way), returning on Thursday and Monday at 1000. Alexia III departs Tuesday 0930, Friday 1100 and Sunday 0700, returning Wednesday 1300, Saturday 1300 and Sunday 0830, same fares. In heavy seas you may be better opting for a schooner, which despite being smaller, ride the waves better than the larger boats which may make you seasick, said to be worse going to Carriacou than coming back. Be prepared for incredibly loud reggae/rap music. The MV Edna David sails on Sunday 0700, arriving Carriacou 1030, returning 1700, arriving in St George’s 2030, EC$35. Times are subject to change and you must check. There are also unscheduled services between these islands; by asking around you might be be able to get a passage on one. Eagle Quest sails from Grenada to Sandy Island and back on Sunday, departing 0930, return 1700.

Carriacou is one hour by schooner from Union Island; scheduled service by MV Obedient twice a week. Two small fishing boats sail Monday 1300 from Hillsborough pier, one hour, EC$10.

Water taxis

A water taxi service runs from in front of the Nutmeg restaurant, St George’s to the Grand Anse beach. Carriacou: Water taxis to beaches cost EC$60-100 depending on the length of the journey. Alternatively, just walk around. Fishing and sailing trips from Hillsborough pier or ask at hotels. The Osprey Express and the other ferries call here after Hillsborough coming from St George’s, and the mail boat from Carriacou calls on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Yachts

Yachts can be hired by the day from Tanki’s diving base near the airport; ask for Captain Dennis. The studio, next to Alexis supermarket on Tyrrel Bay, T/F4438625, VHF 16, has yachts, charter service, email and internet access, mail drop, bookswap, bar, coffee shop, music, closed Sun, small and pleasant.

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