The North Coast

Just outside Victoria, another fishing port and capital of St Mark’s Parish, is a rock in the sea with Amerindian petroglyphs on it (best to know where to look over the parapet). The road continues around the northwest coast, turning inland before returning to the sea at Sauteurs, the capital of St Patrick’s parish, on the north coast.

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The town is renowned as the site of the mass suicide of Grenada’s last 40 Caribs, who jumped off a cliff rather than surrender to the French (see History). Sauteurs celebrates St Patrick’s Day with a week of activities in the arts, crafts, food and drink. Behind Sauteurs is McDonald College from whose gate there are marvellous views out to sea, with the Grenadines beyond the town’s two church towers, and inland to cloud-covered mountains. In March Sauteurs celebrates St Patrick’s Day with a week of events, exhibits of arts and crafts and a mini-street festival.

From Sauteurs a road approaches Levera Bay from its west side. Turn left at Chez Norah’s bar, a two-storey, green, corrugated iron building (snacks available); the track rapidly becomes quite rough and the final descent to Levera is very steep, suitable only for four-wheel drive. A better way to Levera approaches from the south. The road forks left about two miles south of Morne Fendue, passes through river Sallee and past Bathway Beach. The river Sallee Boiling Springs are an area of spiritual importance; visitors are inspired to throw coins into the fountain while they make a wish. Swimming is good at the beautiful Levera Beach and there is surf in certain conditions. Do not swim far out as there is a current in the narrows between the beach and the privately-owned Sugar Loaf Island. Further out are Green and Sandy Islands; you may be able to arrange a trip there with a fisherman who keeps his boat on Levera Beach.

Morne Fendue plantation house offers accommodation and serves lunch for EC$40, including drinks; good local food and all you can drink, T4429330, reservations essential. The house, owned by Betty Mascoll MBE, is full of atmosphere (although some of the plaster and stucco work is in poor shape), and the driveway ends in a flowerbed full of poinsettias. St Patrick’s is an agricultural region, comparatively poor and marginal.

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