C-E Marin Hotel, 19 Second Ave, T2243. Meals available (breakfast US$3.20, lunch and dinner US$6.40). E Modern, 9 First Ave, T2301, near ferry. 2 luxury rooms C, others basic, with bath and fan. Recommended. Good food, book ahead if possible.
Also on First Ave, E Hi-Lo, self-contained suites, also very basic rooms under US$3, crowded, no bath, claustrophobic. Mrs Payne’s daughter, Third Ave next to Hospital, rooms basic, clean. Riverview Beach Bar, at Goshan near Bartica (Camp Silo bible study centre), popular hotel and bar, disco, videos, nice beach, safe swimming.
AL per person, Shanklands, booking office in Cara Suites, 176 Middle St, T68907, F51586, beautifully located on a cliff overlooking the Essequibo, five colonial style cottages with verandah set in lawns and trees, activities include swimming, walking, birdwatching, croquet, fishing, watersports, first class, US$55 per person for day trip, excellent service, good food. Shanklands can be reached by boat from Parika or Bartica; the Baganara Island airstrip is not far away; private transport by road can be arranged from Timberhead.
AL per person, Baracara Resort, on an island opposite the confluence of the Cuyuni and Mazaruni rivers, 10 minutes by boat from Bartika, T/F65225, day trips using jet boat US$55 per person, nine rooms with bath, mosquito net, balcony; very popular on Sunday and in June-August. Buffet meals, swimming, short boat ride to a nature trail and waterfall. Contact Whitewater Adventure Tours.
AL per person, Baganara Island Resort, beautiful house on Baganara Island in the Essequibo River a few miles south of Bartica, private beach, watersports, own airstrip; day trips US$60 per person, including meals, limited bar and activities.
Rainbow River Safari, a 6,800 hectare, independent conservation site on the Mazaruni River at Marshall Falls, accommodation is very simple (softwood chairs, basic bedding, pit latrines, washing in river), cooking over woodfire. Trails in unspoilt forest, waterfalls, wildlife watching, gold and diamond panning, swimming. Day trippers have to pay G$500. For prices, other tours and development plans contact Mr E Sabat, teds...@aol.com, ted....@which.net. In Guyana, c/o Allison or Dawn, Guyenterprise Advertising Agency, T592-2-69874, F56959, office hours; evening and holidays c/o Roslyn, T592-2-50161; or Mrs Louraine Sabat, Rainbow River Safari, F592-2-54084.
The rest house at the top of the Falls is open for guests, but is very basic; enquire first at the National Parks Commission, Georgetown, T59142 (if planning to stay overnight, you must be self-sufficient, whether the guest-house is open or not; take your own food and a hammock, it can be cold and damp at night).
A number of places take guests, full board, organize tours and transport. C-D Savannah Inn, attached to General Store, T2035 (Georgetown 76203), or book through Wilderness Explorers, including breakfast, good, clean, helpful, tours arranged, will take you to airport. E Takutu Guest House, T2084. Clean, basic, poor water supply, Claire cooks food on request (has information on trucks to Georgetown). Cacique Guest House, T2083. Clean, pleasant, good. Regional Guest House, T2020. Ask for the district commissioner’s private quarters for the best room with bath in town. At the Airport Shop, T2085, the Penthouse is for backpackers, bathroom outside, safe, can tie up hammock, basic; Don and Shirley Melville provide the most comprehensive information and assistance service in the Rupununi. The Manari Ranch Hotel, 11 kilometres north of Lethem on a creek (good swimming). US$60 per day, can accommodate about 20 people. Pirara Ranch, 24 kilometres further north, US$50 per day, is a working ranch, good for families, creek for swimming, attractive location on savanna with view of mountains. Foo Foods, T2010. Highly recommended for snacks. The Airport Shop, good snacks, bar.
L per person, Dadanawa Ranch, Duane and Sandy de Freitas, 96 kilometres south of Lethem, one of the world’s largest ranches, each bedroom has verandah (being upgraded). They can organize recommended trekking and horse riding trips, also camping with vaqueros. L per person, Karanambu Ranch, Dianne McTurk, 96 kilometres northeast of Lethem, on the Rupununi River, unique old home, cottages with bath, mosquito net, toiletries, good meals, fishing, excellent birdwatching and boat rides with guides. 24 kilometres from Yupukari Amerindian village, trips possible. Dianne McTurk rears and rehabilitates orphaned giant river otters. For both ranches contact Wilderness Explorers.