West from Georgetown: Routes to Venezuela

Travelling west from Georgetown, the road crosses the 2-kilometre long floating Demerara bridge (opens often for shipping, US$0.25 toll, pedestrians free). Speedboats cross the Demerara from Stabroek market, US$0.30 every 30 minutes. The road continues 42 kilometres, past rice paddies, kokers and through villages to Parika, a growing town on the east bank of the Essequibo River (minibus US$1).

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It has a Sunday market, 0600-1100, and three banks. From here ferries cross the river to Adventure on the west bank at 1700 daily and 0830 Wednesday and Friday, returning at 0300 daily and 1330 Wednesday and Friday; alternatively take a speedboat US$2.40.

The northwest coastal area is mainly accessible by boat only. Speedboats cross from Parika to Supenaam, US$2.80, a very wet crossing. From Supenaam minibuses or taxis (US$3.50 per person) go to Charity. From Adventure a road runs north through Anna Regina. Nearby there is a resort at Lake Mainstay, known as the hot and cold lake because it varies in temperature from one place to another. You can also visit the Wayaka Mainstay Amerindian Community, 13 kilometres from Anna Regina, two and a half hours by road and ferry from Georgetown (depending on tides), 17 minutes by plane from Ogle (US$35). The road goes on to Charity, a pleasant little town with two small hotels and a lively market on Monday (quiet at other times).

Border with Venezuela

Near the border with Venezuela are the small ports of Morawhanna (Morajuana to the Venezuelans) and Mabaruma. Mabaruma has replaced Morawhanna as capital of the region since it is less at risk from flooding. D Kumaka Tourist Resort, Maburama, contact Somwaru Travel Agency, Georgetown, T02-59276, meals (excellent, huge helpings), pool (filled if requested in advance), bath, balcony, hammocks, recommended, owner Lincoln Broomes; offers trips to Hosororo Falls, Babarima Amerindian settlement, rainforest, early examples of Amerindian art.

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