The Road to Mandeville

On the south coast past Black River is Treasure Beach, a wide dark sand beach with body surfing waves, it is one of the most beautiful areas on the island. It is largely used by local fishermen as it is the closest point to the Pedro Banks. There is one small grocery shop and a bakery. A van comes to the village every day with fresh fruit and vegetables. This area is quite unlike any other part of Jamaica and still relatively unvisited by tourists. The local people are very friendly and you will be less hassled by higglers than elsewhere.

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To the east of Treasure Beach lies Lovers’ Leap, a beauty spot named after the slave and his lover (his owner’s daughter) who jumped off the cliff in despair (US$3. 1000-1800 daily), and Alligator Pond.

To the east of Treasure Beach lies Lovers’ Leap, a beauty spot named after the slave and his lover (his owner’s daughter) who jumped off the cliff in despair n US$3. 1000-1800 daily, and Alligator Pond.

If you stay on the A2 instead of turning off at Black River, the road comes to Middle Quarters, on the edge of the Black River Morass (a large swamp); hot pepper shrimp are sold by the wayside, but insist that they are fresh (today’s catch). Just after Middle Quarters is the left turn which takes you to the beautiful YS Falls (pronounced Why-Ess), an unspoiled spot in the middle of a large private plantation well worth visiting. US$9. 0930-1530, Tue-Sun, closed public holidays. There is a 15-minute walk from where you park your car. You can bathe but there are no changing rooms or other facilities; plan a morning visit as there is no shelter in case of afternoon rain. Further along the main road is the impressive 2½-mile long Bamboo Avenue. North of Bamboo Avenue is Maggotty, on the (closed) railway line from Montego Bay to Kingston and close to the Appleton Estate, where tours of the rum factory are offered. For information contact Jamaica Estate Tours Ltd, T9976077, F9632243, or T9526606, Montego Bay. Regular tour parties come from Montego Bay and Negril hotels. US$12. 0900-1600, Mon-Fri. Opposite the Maggotty train depot is the Sweet Bakery, run by Patrick and Lucille Lee, who can arrange accommodation in a Great House (D) or at a rustic campsite (F), very friendly and helpful, local trips organized, Mrs Lee is an excellent cook.

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