Getting Around
Air
Caribbean flies the Trinidad-Tobago route offering seven to eight daily flights; the crossing takes 20 minutes and costs US$75 return, for visitors, even standby. Departures, however, are often heavily booked at weekends and holidays, particularly Christmas and afterwards (at other times tickets can be bought the day before, even standby).
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Land
Car: Driving is on the left and the roads are narrow and winding. On Trinidad the Uriah Butler Highway and Solomon Mocmoy Highway are good dual carriageways from Port of Spain south to San Fernando, but other roads are not of such a high standard. On Tobago the roads are good in the south but badly maintained further north. There are lots of pot holes in Scarborough and traffic weaves about all over the place to avoid them. The road between Charlotteville and Bloody Bay is for four-wheel drive vehicles only and then only in the dry season. Mountain bikes are fine on these roads if you can stand the hills and the heat. International and most foreign driving licences are accepted for up to 90 days, after that the visitor must apply for a Trinidad and Tobago licence and take a test. Visitors must always carry their driving document with them. Do not leave anything in your car, theft is frequent. Be careful where you park in Port of Spain, police are diligent and will tow the car away. It costs US$17 to retrieve it.
Car Hire: Car rental can be difficult on Trinidad, particularly at weekends, because of heavy demand. Best to make reservations in advance. Several companies do not accept credit cards, but require a considerable cash deposit. Small cars can be rented from US$30 a day upwards, unlimited mileage, check tyres before driving off. Deposit varies from company to company, as does method of payment, book in advance. Insurance costs US$1. Many car rental companies have offices at the airport. Car rental firms are numerous and include: Auto Rentals Ltd, Uptown Mall, Edward St, Port of Spain (623-7368), Piarco (T6692277), and at Cruise Ship Complex, 1 D Wrighton Rd (T6248687); Bacchus Taxi and Car Rental, 37 Tragarete Rd (6225588); Lord Calloo, 100 la Paille Village, Caroni (T/F6695673), helpful, check tyres; Singh’s, 7-9 Wrightson Rd (6254247) and at airport (T6455417, F6643860); Southern Sales and Service Co Ltd, recommended, main office at Victoria Village, San Fernando, also have office at Piarco, T6692424, friendly and helpful. Autocenter Ltd, 33-35 Richmond St, T6254041; Econo Car Rentals, 191-193 Western Main Rd, T6228072, one of the cheapest. If you prefer an executive limousine, contact Executive Limousine Service, 70 Sackville St, Port of Spain, T6252624. Also on Tobago: Auto Rentals Ltd, Crown Point Airport (T6390644, F6390313); Peter Gremli Car Rental, Crown Point, T6398400; Rodriguez Travel, Clark Trace, Bethany, T6398507; Banana Rentals at Kariwak Village, cars and jeeps, US$21 per day, scooters US$10 per day (deposit US$60), bicycles US$4 per day (T6398441/8545); Suzuki Jeep Rental (and small cars), and Cherry Scooter Rental at Sandy Point Beach Club (scooters and deposit cheaper than Banana); Tobago Travel, P O Box 163, Store Bay Rd, Crown Point (639-8778/8105, F6398786), Baird’s, Lower Sangster Hill Rd (639-2528); Rollock’s Car Rental Service, Lowlands (T6390328, after hours T6397369), US$48 per day, recommended; and other agencies. Some companies only rent for a minimum of three days.
Taxis: Look for cars with first letter H on licence plates (no other markings). Agree on a price before the journey and determine whether the price is in TT or US dollars. Taxis are expensive, although route taxis (similar to colectivos) are very cheap. These cannot be distinguished from ordinary taxis, so ask the driver. They travel along fixed routes, like buses, but have no set stops, so you can hail them and be dropped anywhere along the route. During rush hour it is not easy to hail them, however, and in general it takes time to master how they work. Be warned that route taxis are not covered by insurance so you cannot claim against the driver if you are involved in an accident. There are also ‘pirate’ taxis with the P registration of a private car, which cost the same as the ordinary taxis, although you can sometimes bargain with the drivers. ‘Ghost’ taxis accept fares and drive off with your luggage as well – be warned. Be careful if hitching on Tobago as the cars that stop often prove to be pirate taxis.
Route Taxis: In Port of Spain most sedan taxis (saloon cars, often rather beat up) set off from Chacon St, but those for St Ann’s and St James leave from Woodford Square, for Carenage from St Vincent and Park Streets, for the Diego Martin area from South Quay, and for Maraval, Belmont and Morvant from Duke and Charlotte Streets. Fares in town US$0.50, further out US$0.75. If you are in a hurry you can pay for any remaining empty seats and ask the driver to go. They will also go off-route for a little extra but going off route to the Hilton costs US$7. They are the only means of transport on some suburban routes, such as to St Ann’s, and in rural areas away from main roads. Travelling to remote areas may involve three or more taxis, not really a problem, just ask where the next one stops. Major routes run all night and are amazingly frequent during the day, others become infrequent or stop late at night. St Christopher’s taxis or airport taxis are taxis as understood in most countries. Some are smarter and more comfortable than route taxis. St Christopher’s operates from the main hotels. Take a taxi if you have a complicated journey, or you have heavy baggage, or it is raining. At night it can be a lot cheaper than getting robbed.
Maxi-Taxis: Maxi-taxis are minibuses which cover longer distances than route taxis; they are frequent and go as fast as the traffic will allow, often a bit faster. They are colour coded (yellow for Diego Martin and west, red for east, green for San Fernando, brown or black for maxis which start in San Fernando and travel south from there) and they set off mostly from South Quay except the Carenage and Chaguaramas maxis, which start from Green corner on St Vincent and Park Streets (Globe cinema) and Maraval maxis, which start from Oxford and Charlotte Streets. Check exact route before starting, eg east taxis are either ‘San Juan’ or ‘all the way up’ the Eastern Main Rd to Arima, or ‘highway’, which is faster and runs closer to the airport but misses places like Tunapuna and Curepe. Fares start at US$0.30 and run to Arima, US$1; to Chaguanas, US$1; to San Fernando, US$1.75. If you are worried about being overcharged, pay with TT$10 and look as though you know how much change to expect, but drivers are usually very helpful and friendly.
Buses: In Trinidad, the word ‘taxi’ includes most forms of public transport. The word ‘travelling’ means going by bus or taxi rather than by private car. Buses are run by the PTSC. They are big and cheap, also slow, irregular and dirty. However, the PTSC also has newer air-conditioned buses, Express Commuter Service (ECS), with a/c lounge for waiting passengers, on main routes from Independence Square to Arima, Chaguanas, Five Rivers and San Fernando, also from Arima to Sangre Grande. These are not quite so cheap, faster and more comfortable, US$1 to San Fernando. On all routes, you must purchase your ticket at the kiosk before boarding the bus; you may have to tender the exact fare. The PTSC office is located at the remodelled South Quay railway station, called City Gate, and is the main terminal for both buses and maxi taxis. You can get information showing how to reach the various sights by bus.
- On Tobago (as on Trinidad), buy bus tickets in advance as drivers will not accept money. All buses originate in Scarborough. Schedules are changed or cancelled frequently. Buses every 30 minutes between Crown Point (airport) and Scarborough, TT$2. Buy tickets from the grey hut outside the airport building where timetable is posted. Also an express bus to Scarborough, TT$2, ticket from souvenir shop, not hut as for the other bus. Bus Scarborough-Plymouth hourly on the hour, return on the half hour, half-hourly in busy times, via Carnbee, Buccoo junction, Mt Irvine and Black Rock. On Tobago, route taxis charge TT$4 and leave from Republic Bank in Scarborough. The Crown Point Airport route is the best, every 15-30 minutes, 0530-1830; Black Rock route is fair, every 30 minutes Monday-Friday 0530-2030, every 60-75 minutes Saturday and Sunday until 2000. Route taxis to Charlotteville start from Burnett Square, TT$9-10 depending on whether vehicle is minibus or car, 1-1¼ hours. The route taxi system is difficult for the foreigner, being based on everyone knowing every car and therefore where it is going.
Sea
Ferry: Boats from Port of Spain to Tobago go once a day at 1400 Monday-Friday and 1100 on Sunday and public holidays, no crossings on Saturday; return crossings from Scarborough at 2300 Monday-Friday and Sunday. The crossing is supposedly five hours. Hammocks can be slung at night; the a/c is very cold, locals take a blanket. The trip can be rough. There are two vessels: M/F Tobago, and M/V Panorama. Tickets are sold at the Port Authority (T6392417) on the docks, US$8-10 return, cabin for two US$13 when available, children under 12 half price, under three free, office hours Monday-Friday 0700-1500, 1600-1800, 1900-2200 (buy passage in advance, everyone will recommend you to queue at 0800, but 1000 is usually early enough). You need a boarding pass and not just a ticket before you can board. Taking the ferry is a very time consuming operation; it is a lot less hassle to fly.
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